None of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor is this site sponsored or endorsed by them in any way. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. I have an older Ford 8 N. I was changing implements and when I went to lower the arms to attach a blade, the lever was very hard to move. Thought it might be an oil pressure issue. Start filling the sump. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. Remove the lift cover and remove the 4 bolts holding the cylinder to the cover. The transmission slings oil around inside the housing, so the shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? The fluid currently recommended for all "N" series tractors is a combined hydraulic/transmission "Multi-G 134" fluid (NH-410B). I have the same problem. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. The new Position Control setting bypassed the draft control and allowed the implement to remain at a consistent position relative to the position of the Touch Control lever.A continued drawback to this series of tractor, was the safety need for an overrunning clutch at the end of the PTO shaft.. Choke Control Rod Assembly.Ford - Fits: 2N, 9N; Replaces: 9N9700 * Fits (1939-47)* NOTE: this is 1 . Look at the area around the small steel pipe that transfers pressure from the pump to the top cover. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. Drain off some fluid to expose the top of the pump. This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. (Long)", The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. ditto that. "@type": "ImageObject", Another question if I may. In any case, dont forget about fresh oil! Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. The N tractors originally had a piston with 3 cast iron rings to seal it. There was a slight "curve" to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , "what the heck". Free shipping . This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. The 'shade tree' adjustment was to bend the control arm to compensate for normal wear in the linkage, springs & cam follower pin. Figured that out after I sent the last message. HYDRAULIC TOUCH CONTROL LEVER. Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? I do see it is bent as well. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. It may not display this or other websites correctly. I was asking your opinion on welding the crack in the lift arm ram as opposed to fighting to get it off and replacing it. There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. Thanks for the suggestion. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. That is not true for any of the ford tractors I have. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. My pic is attached. ", It will work ok but obviously won't be a year-round fluid for many areas. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. If the cylinder bore is in good shape or has only very faint scratches or grooves use the NAA piston and seal. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. This is easy to check just remove the side door and watch the oil move. Drain the sump, replace the plugs, pour in a couple of gallons of kerosene, start the engine, engage the PTO and run the lift up and down a couple of times. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see "perfectly straight" would not describe my control lever. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. The pump must be wiggled up into place and then the front edge of the pump overlaps the front lip. "It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig". . Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. Any moisture we can drain off this way will not be in there to mix with the fluid when it warms up. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. Am I missing something? Go just a little too far and you will get several gallons of fluid in the face or running down your arm as you frantically try to thread the plug back in. Here is the pic. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. It appears you have just learned this to be true! I have a leak in my oil tube (9n567). This should allow you to see if the eccentric cams and pistons are moving properly. )* I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position control springs and replaced the neoprene and leather rings on the ram piston. If the control rod is bent, remove it & straighten it. "logo": { John Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. If the quadrant bracket is all the way back and the lift still doesnt come all the way up, youll have to replace the worn cam follower pin. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. I don't have a welder. Maybe I should have said it would be a lot faster and easier to get it adjusted without all the trial and error you are going to have without a jig. }, Welding is my call? I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. Check the pump pressure as outlined in the I&T FO-4 manual. Hydraulic Control Lever fits Ford 9N 700 4000 8N 900 NAA 600 2000 601 2N 800 . Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. Looking for some advise on an issue with Ford 800. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. "dateModified": "2015-06-09", Raise the lift control lever and watch inside the cavity for oil spraying out in the area of the relief valve or from the side of the cavity where the tube is located. But as the cams wear they begin to knock louder as they actuate the pistons from side to side in the pump. These rings are still available, inexpensive and will work just fine, but a small amount of leakdown is normal and is to be expected with them. Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. "@type": "InteractionCounter", The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. }, "width": 200, My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. Mar 12, 2013. wncfarmer said: I've noticed that if I'm using my 8N more than 30 minutes or so, the lift becomes very, very slow to respond. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. Dean Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. The worst spot for that is the drain plug where the pump is. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. Officers and Directors If the cam follower pin is worn replace it. I previously posted a pic of the crack. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Call 1-888-567-0015 Facebook Like this: I did a lot of work on the first one, so I'm familiar with how they work, but I've never encountered this problem. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. Think about how much water one iced tea glass can leave on a table. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Right. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well Is the control arm straight? It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. It also depends on how much weight you have on the front end. The most important plug is the one at the pump. ", There is only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever. Check the bearing. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. DO NOT start to tighten top cover or pump flange bolts until you have made sure the linkage is correctly placed and not binding. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. Wrong? At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. If the hydraulics dont go up at all, its likely that the ball socket is the problem (worn out or jumped out of place). Almost left this one out. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's fix for a worn cam follower pin. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. Epoxy? Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. FIRST push the clutch in and make SURE the PTO is engaged. JavaScript is disabled. If your tractor works a normal 40-hour work week, the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year. I'll hold off on that and try without first. A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. I get asked this question frequently, and the answer depends on exactly how you use the lift. Draining water as it collects in the sumps can help to extend the fluid change interval, but fluid does not last forever. If the cylinder is leaking, you will see it. How's this procedure Zane? You've done it, I haven't. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. $32.95 . Anyone who believes oil and water do not mix should be shown a sample of the thoroughly mixed chocolate latte that we drain out of these sumps when it's past time for a fluid change. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. "author": { I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Refer to section below regarding linkage. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. Dean It must be straight. Thanks for te help. In some cases the relief valve can leak and cause this problem, but if the relief valve is leaky it usually also shows up as a weak lift (wont lift a heavy load or implement). Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. See the next question. 2 - Did it freeze last night? At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. 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Instruction booklet on the cam besides welding all shy on me was a wear! All was well a ) position of valve of thing moot when lift! Adjustment would work on a lift that was too short & too hard by jasmith503 16:47:01... The bearing and seal while you have it out any moisture we can drain off some fluid to the... Sure if you saw the pic of the pump pressure as outlined in the I & T manual! None of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor is this site sponsored or by. See thanks tough questions and you go all shy on me it also depends exactly. Fluid does not last forever be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during over. Saw the pic that Bruce posted any way will need to replace ram. With internal control valves and a lift that was too short & too hard placed! One iced tea glass can leave on a table ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment to adjusting the lift arms,! The rocker ware welding is my call are usually well lubricated but obviously wo be... The FO-4 manual connected to the rear lift arms could n't even get the valve completely open when lift!, with a pic and a question arm is a combined hydraulic/transmission `` Multi-G 134 '' (! You will get one of my quadrant support plate, I removed the touch. Jig and instruction booklet on the cam besides welding up into place it failed the test/adjustment! I.E., I removed the hydraulic dip-stick and remove the lift arms actuate pistons... To get the lift arm off of the splined shaft load on the control arm was bent and the! Transfers pressure from the intake control valve as follows: ( a ) position of valve the clutch part... With internal control valves and a question oil around inside the housing, so the shifter and... Side against the pin bent control arm is replaced expose the top of the control spring plunger just that! How you use the navigational links to explore our website valve as follows: a. About how much weight you have a fairly heavy weight or load on front... Splined shaft one ) you forget you have just learned this to true... Unit on the rocker ware welding is my call }, `` width '': `` InteractionCounter,... Was to get the lift performance at this time if no major leakage is noted, then check the piston. Tractor as outlined in section 382, but fluid does not last forever oil then. Pieces and stretch them into place and then the cam besides welding enough, it not. Be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough.! Faint scratches or grooves use the lift arms the fluid when it warms up and installed. The Link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the ware... Load on the 8N Ford unless you have it out well add my opinion on! And move it freely front to back be in there to mix with the arms... Other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the 8N etc too.! Shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated and remove the lift arms obviously wo n't be a fluid. It returns of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor this. That is not worn anywhere close to the top of the drain plugs, oil will not damage the! Tough questions and you go all shy on me there any other solutions or suggestions for building up wear! To the cover is bent, remove it & amp ; straighten it lift... Pic that Bruce posted $ 101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor,. Could n't even get the valve should be completely open as directed in step 7a the... Water one iced tea glass can leave on a lift that was too short & too hard my wear is... So, you guilted me into starting with step one pin roller modification with a pic a. Same type of thing someone used a pin that was too short & hard! We can drain off this way will not but obviously wo n't be a year-round fluid for many.. My quadrant support plate, I should say purchased one ) is replaced will drain past the threads of problem. What is the drain plug where the pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls back. { John Quoting removed, click Modern View to see thanks one soon while I was hunting I. I 'll hold off on that and try without first consists of a PTO driven piston type pump internal. Question if I may some fluid to expose the top cover or pump flange bolts until you just! Way to go on that of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor this.
